How to change the
NOTE: There is no need to change your
injectors. Nissan has recalled all 84-89 300ZXs in the USA and will replace
the injectors and some other associated components free of charge. Make an
appointment with any dealer if your car has not been done yet. If you're
unsure whether your car has been done yet, call any dealer with your VIN
handy and they will look it up for you.
The early 300ZXs' injectors
have a habit of leaking around the seam where they are pressed together. If
they are not changed once they start to leak, your car will burn. Since this
is not good, you will want to change your injectors once they start to leak.
"But how will I know when/if they leak?", you ask. You will smell it, trust
me. Anytime you smell gas in your car, check around the injectors and fuel
rail, as this is where virtually all leaks start. It is a good idea to carry
a fire extinguisher in your car, just in case. If your car catches on fire,
unless you are really lucky, or near a fire station, it will be a complete
Simply call your local Nissan
dealer for information on what to do to have the recall work done on your
car. It's not really hard to change the injectors, just takes some time.
Here is how you do it:
de al vervangen
injector is vaak te herkennen aan de slangklem net onder de benzineleiding.
Hier kun je ook goed de stekker zien van de injector en de #@*PIEP ijzeren
veertje waarmee deze geborgt zitten, ik raad een fittingschroevendraaier en
magneet ernaast sterk aan!
- Buy 6 new injectors.
Watch out there are different types: turbo and non-turbo and there are
dual line types (these are with an extra fuel line on all of the injectors).
(zie links en dan docter injector voor de goedkoopste kwaliteit! en
beste adviezen/hulp). They usually run around $30-40 each (Unless you buy Nissan ones which are
$100 a pop), and of course you need six. It's also a good idea to replace
the pressure regulator now. I've been told that when it goes bad, it can
take the air flow meter($502!!) with it. I don't see how this could happen,
but it did on mine. It's semi-pricey at $130, but good insurance. I highly
advise it. Buy the gasket that goes between the two halves of the intake
manifold. It costs ~$5 at a Nissan dealer. You will also need a few feet of
high quality 5/16 feul line. Don't skimp on the hose, the best stuff you can
buy won't cost more than $2/foot. Do not, under any circumstances use cheap
"no name" brand hose from Auto Bone, Western Auto, or somewhere like that.
They buy the cheapest stuff they can find. I would reccomend you use
Goodyear hose exclusively for this job, as some of the lines are not
accessable without semi-major dissassembly. Also get some good quality hose
clamps, locking ones are ideal. I would also reccomend that you change the
fuel filter during this proccess. You will also need a set of injector
o-rings. There two on each injector, one large and one small. These are the
o-rings that seal the injectors to the intake manifold.
- Relieve the pressure in
the system by letting the car idle after unplugging the fuel pump. It will
die in a few seconds from a lack of fuel.
- Remove the upper half of
the intake manifold, this is not as bad as it sounds. Unplug/disconnect
everything on top of the engine, labelling if you need to, and work the
manifold out through the rat's nest of wires, being carefull not to rip any
of them out.
- Immediately stuff some
rags into the intake ports to prevent stuff from falling down there. This is
bad if it happens. Your engine is meant to run on air and gas, not air, gas,
chunks of gasket material, and a few stray nuts, bolts and washers. If
anything should fall in there, be sure to remove it before re-assembly. If
it is not retrievable, then you will have to, um, dissassemble the engine.
nieuwe injectoren met kleine en grote o-ringen gemonteerd, ook zijn alle
brandstofslangetjes en klemmen vervangen, doe dit wel want je kunt er nu bij!
This is not that big of a job,
give yourself a weekend and make sure you have all the parts before you begin
because the average person dosen't want to have to remove the manifold again.
The going price around here is $900 for the whole job, parts and all(factory
injectors) You will end up spending about $300 total if you do it yourself(+
$130 if you replace the pressure regulator)
- Unplug and unbolt all the
injectors. Disconnect the three fuel lines that connect to the fuel rail.
The entire injector rail will now lift up and out, injectors and all. Also
be sure to remove the old injector o-rings. IF YOU TOOK THE PRESSURE
REGULATOR OF TOO, BE CAREFULL NOT TO DAMAGE THE TEMPERATURE SENSOR ON IT!!!
- Very carefully cut the
injectors off the rail. Use the sharpest razor blade you can find. Heat it
up so it almost melts threw the fuelhose. Try to
avoid cutting/scratching the mating surface on the fuel rail, as this may
cause leaks in the future. Blow out the fuel rail to remove the ten years of
crap that has built up inside, and any rubber shavings you may have missed.
- The new injectors should
have a short section of fuel line already pressed onto them. CHECK THE
LENGTH OF THESE NEW FUEL LINE BECAUSE IF THEY ARE TO LONG THE INTAKE
MANIFOLD WILL LAY ON THE INJECTOR FUEL LINE AND NOT ON THE GASKET!!! The injectors
are then pressed onto the rail. This sounds easy, but is very frustrating.
It is an extremely tight fit, use a little BENZINE as a lubricant (AND NOT
WATER OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT) and take your
time. The quality of work is what determines how long these injectors will
last. I always put a small hose clamp on this short section of line, closest
to the fuel rail for extra insurance, but it is not necessary.
- Put the new injector
o-rings in place, the large one on the injector, the small one in the intake
manifold, and set the fuel rail in place, being careful not to damage the
injectors on the way in. Do not force anything into place.
- If you have trouble
getting those little spacer blocks to stay in place, tape them to the
injector retaining rings in the appropriate orientation.
- Torque the retaining
rings down to the specified torque. This is something like 3 lbft, it is a
VERY LOW TORQUE. Use a torque wrench, borrow one if you don't have one this
sensetive. These parts are very sensetive, too tight or loose and air will
leak around the injectors, which will require dissassembly to remedy.
- Replace all fuel lines
that are not easily accessable at this time. Also replace the fuel filter
- Scrape away the stuck on
gasket material from the mating surface of the two manifold halves. Bu sure
it is clean enough to provide a good seal for the new gasket.
- Replace the upper half of
the intake manifold and re-attach everything you disconnected, making sure
you removed the rags you stuck in there, and making sure the red rings on
the gasket are facing downwards. Re-connect everything you disconnected, not
forgetting the fuel pump.
- turn the ignition on and
let the car sit for a few seconds until the fuel pump cuts off, this means
the feul lines have reached operating pressure. Start the engine, it will be
hard to keep it running at first due to all the air in the fuel lines, but
should be fine in less than a minute.
- Carry around a fire
extinguisher for a few days to make sure there are no leaks under the hood.
It is a good idea to carry one around all the time.
TERUG NAAR TECHNIEK